During another rummage I turned up this Polaroid from a shoot I styled for ELLE magazine in 2003. It was a photo story to celebrate the twentieth anniversary of the Moschino label featuring rock royalty Lizzy Jagger, who modelled a selection of archive looks from the Italian fashion house. I picked out iconic pieces (a tweed Chanel-type jacket outlined with safety-pins, a dress fashioned from an Italian flag and a long black gown printed with the attributes of a perfect customer including ‘intelligence’ and ‘good taste’), classics that the designer Franco Moschino reworked over and over with an acutely honed sense of humour. Moschino, who died on 18th September 1994, was well aware that he bit the well-manicured hand that fed him, and throughout his career made it his mission to subvert the status symbols of the bourgeoisie. For one fashion show his elegantly attired models crawled down the catwalk on their hands and knees, while for another they wore nothing but sunglasses, logo-ed carrier bags (as dresses) and high heels. Moschino also recognised the power of the slogan. For the fashion story I chose this giant size T-shirt simply printed with the word PEACE. It seemed appropriate then as I wrote: ‘[Moschino] was a man who wished for more. He was the ultimate blue-sky thinker and he used this image on the ballgown that Lizzy models…Yes, there are clouds in the sky, but they are of the lightest, fluffiest, cotton-wool variety.’ “I think that people need to have a little part of a dream or hope about a dress,” he told me when I interviewed him in the mid-1980s. Almost three decades later and Moschino’s words, and that T-shirt, seem even more apposite…

Photographer: Eric Frideen
Model: Lizzy Jagger
Make-up: Liz Martins
Hair: Martin Gayle
Clothes: Moschino (S/S 2002)

A version of this image originally appeared in Elle, September 2003


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